More insights from a weekend in EschCoolest corner
Cool is a relative concept in Luxembourg, which would turn up looking like Matt Hancock on his day off if you invited it to a house party.
That said, the former steel works at Belval is showing signs of hipsterism: think repurposed industrial architecture, plant-based restaurants, and fresh-faced academics. But Berlin this ain’t.
Kulturfabrik has bona fide cool credentials. Formerly a slaughterhouse, it was squatted by creatives in the eighties, and then turned into a grassroots cultural space.
Must-see sight
Esch doesn’t have much in its tourist arsenal. Its most popular attraction — according to TripAdvisor — is Rockhal, a live music venue that’s become the engine room of Belval now the steelworks are shut. The 6,500-capacity venue pulls in big names; The Killers and Red Hot Chili Peppers have raised the roof in recent years. There was palpable excitement locally about Sting’s March gig. Breakthrough London rapper Little Simz is also set to perform during Esch’s year in the spotlight.
That Belval’s defunct blast furnaces are Esch’s second most popular attraction perhaps highlights the scale of the challenge with regards to tourism. In the summer, visitors can climb them for views across Luxembourg.
Signature dish
Luxembourg is quietly producing some fine wines, but batches are small, so most of it doesn’t leave the country. Its crémants — sparkling wines that some would be hard pushed to tell apart from Champagne — are especially noteworthy.
Drupis bar in downtown Esch has a corner of its menu dedicated to Luxembourgish wine, and its cheerful sommeliers will merrily talk you through it.
Finding genuine local fare, however, is nigh on impossible. Nobody in Esch was able to point me to a restaurant selling green bean and smoked pork soup, potato fritters or resiling paté, which are among Luxembourg’s specialities. Google yielded no results either.
Fortunately, I found them in the City of Luxembourg, specifically at Am Tiirmschen, a charming restaurant hidden down labyrinthine lanes in the old town, a short stroll from Notre-Dame Cathedral. It does a tasting menu with all the local hits, which I washed down with a glass of reisling.
Its English equivalent
Bromsgrove. Where? Exactly.
Fun fact
That this is the most fun bit of trivia that I can muster, perhaps highlights the dearth of options. But here it is: you could argue that the European Union was forged at Belval steelworks in Esch. Its blast furnaces were one of the crucibles of the European Coal and Steel Community (ECSC), which was set up after the Second World War to regulate Europe’s steel and coal industry. The ECSC ultimately started the process of integration, which led to the creation of the European Union.
Getting there
Gavin travelled by Eurostar to Brussels Midi (from £39 each way), where regular direct trains depart for Esch-sur-Alzette. Eurostar tickets offers free travel to any station in Belgium, so you only need a ticket from Arlon on the Belgian border to Esch-sur-Alzette (from €2.50 one way). Total journey time is about six hours. Alternatively, fly direct with BA (from £80 return).
Where to stay
Located in a wooded park overlooking the city, The Seven Hotel has among the best facilities — and views — in Esch. Just be prepared for a steep walk back every day, or a €10 taxi from the town centre.
More information
visitluxembourg.com; esch2022.lu
Source link : https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/luxembourg/happened-weekend-eus-boring-capital-culture/
Author :
Publish date : 2022-04-05 03:00:00
Copyright for syndicated content belongs to the linked Source.