There, it is as if the might of geology decided a few million years ago to impress a future species of day tripper. But that’s a well-worn trail. I found the Marlborough Sounds at the far north of the South Island equally enthralling, and I got that extra experience simply by taking the regular ferry across the Cook Strait from Wellington – easier than travelling miles out of my way and booking on a private tour to Milford. But if you do go to Milford, don’t just wait for the Sounds. Look up, as the roads in the canyons are incredible. Thousands of feet high, they have to maintain an avalanche team to monitor the peaks and ensure that the visitor doesn’t get crushed by a rock fall. (I went up there with them. The ridges teeter over sheer 3,000ft drops to either side.)
Don’t go near the Bay of Islands either without getting onto some sort of boat – any sort of boat – to get a feel for the alluring beauty that captivated Captain Cook. I went fishing by a big arching rock. Whatever it was that took my bait, snapper or kingfish, proved too huge for me to haul aboard. Thank God. But I also visited winemakers on my journey. I walked through abandoned mining towns like Reefton, and I separately met two men who owned working gold mines.
Hardy can-do enterprising folk thrive across New Zealand. Farmers were forced to adapt when Britain abandoned them for the EU. They rethought themselves. Restaurants, helicopter rides, jet boat trips, wine tastings all added to the diversity. The average New Zealander seems to want to test the limits of physical experience and invites you to go with them.
Of the major towns, I like Wellington the best, for its winding streets. Central Auckland is a little bleak. Get a ferry out to the suburbs and beaches to understand that town. There are great art galleries, museums and restaurants everywhere.
And just a final warning – don’t entirely believe the subtropical Pacific-paradise myth. It gets cold on New Zealand’s South Island, and the Kiwis don’t really believe in central heating. I can see why Californian billionaires have tried to buy up their own chunks of the apocalypse-free view. I can see why Jacinta has decided to prevent them. It’s not so easy to go to live there anymore. But you can visit, at least you can when restrictions once again allow. Just make sure your visit is a long one.
Griff’s Great New Zealand Adventure begins on ITV on Friday at 8pm
When can we return?
New Zealand’s zero Covid strategy has led to the island nation being one of the world’s most closed off when it comes to tourism. Visitors are only permitted to enter for a few critical purposes – and the list is small and strict (immigration.govt.nz). As of Nov 1, those who do make the cut – including New Zealand permanent residents and temporary visa holders – must be fully vaccinated, have proof of a negative PCR test result in the 72 hours before departure and spend time in Managed Isolation and Quarantine (MIQ). As of Nov 14, the mandatory length of time spent in hotel isolation will reduce from 14 days to seven. There are plans in place that will see MIQ move to home isolation some time in 2022.
The nation’s flag carrier, Air New Zealand, has announced that from February 2022 any passengers on its international flights will need to be fully vaccinated. While there was, for a short time, a two-way travel bubble with Australia, this is currently suspended until further notice. Back in August, Jacinda Ardern, the prime minister, announced that New Zealand would aim to start reopening borders to visitors from low-risk countries from early next year. As the country reviews the statistics, there have been no further announcements on when Britons can expect to return to the country. More information: gov.uk/foreign-traveladvice/new-zealand/
Source link : https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/oceania/new-zealand/surfing-sand-dunes-naked-mud-baths-new-zealand-worth-wait/
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Publish date : 2021-11-19 03:00:00
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